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After a night at the Polson rodeo we woke up early because the
sun was shining right into the tent. It got pretty warm that day
and it was great to walk around in T-shirts and shorts. We
decided to stay another night and explore the area a bit more.
Checked emails at the local library (for free at all the
libraries we went) and went to the Kerr Dam.
The next morning it poured down with rain, packing up in the
rain isn’t much fun but it wasn’t cold which was good. We rode
to the national Bison Range but were very disappointed when we
were told there are no motorbikes allowed in the park. The road
(90 miles of gravel) is pretty rough and the bison can be pretty
dangerous.
We kept going and had some lunch near a river. There were a lot
of trout fishermen around. We watched them for a while and
packed up again to keep going. Suddenly Ronnie spotted the rear
tyre was pretty flat. He decided to head back to the small town
we had just come through and pump it up. I stayed behind and
when he got back he told me it would be better to stay in town
tonight and wait for the motorbike shops to open again the next
morning (it was Sunday).
We put up our tent at the local caravan park ($16) and Ronnie
took off the next morning to get an inner tube and also bought a
little pump you can attach to the battery. The weather was
beautiful and the road great. We rode through small villages and
saw a lot of amazing log cabins/houses along the rivers.
We came through Nevada City and Virginia City. Both little
ghost towns with a lot of history. That evening we camped near
West Yellowstone. ($16 per night) We booked the site for 3
nights so we could explore Yellowstone national park. The night
before we arrived there was a grizzly bear in the campground.
They’ve got food lockers here and the bear could smell
something.
Some campers had woken up and had made lots of noise with pots
and pans to chase the bear away. The food lockers were right
next to our camping spot, I didn’t sleep much that night.
Rode into West Yellowstone the next day and I spotted about 6
bison near the ranger station (only 200 meters from the town).
We stopped and took some photo’s. In the park we saw elk and
deer. A lot of cars had stopped for a bison who walked on the
road. He walked past a Harley with a trailer and stopped, the
bison nearly had a go at the trailer. The people on the bike
nearly pooped themselves, he was that close to them. Luckily
nothing happened, Ronnie watched the bison closely and went
around the cars to avoid the big beast.
The next day was the 4th of July, American flags everywhere. We
left the campground early to do another big ride through the
park. The morning was freezing cold; we only found out once we
were on our way and didn‘t want to go back and get more clothes.
We had to stop every couple of kilometers to get our blood
flowing again, it was that cold.
We went to see the geysers, the old Faithful had just done its
job but was still spraying lots of water and steam up in the
air. Amazing scenery and beautiful waterfalls. Lots of wildlife
too, we saw a black bear with her cub climbing the hills and
there were hundreds of bison.
Back in West Yellowstone we went to the IMAX theatre and watched
the Yellowstone movie. That night we watched the 4th of July
parade and we heard the fireworks that evening when we were back
at the camp.
The next morning we packed up to leave the park. We put on all
the clothes we could find, we had to go over a 8,262 feet pass
today so I’m sure it would be cold again.
After about 100 kilometers we had a coffee stop to get warm.
There were lots of rangers who were going to maintain the tracks
in Yellowstone. They can only get to these tracks by horse and
they were spraying mosquito spray onto the horses. The mozzies
were thick here, they were zooming around us too and they just
sting you through your jeans.
We were now in Wyoming and rode through Grand Teton National
Park. There were bushfires somewhere though which was a real
shame. Grand Teton is 13,700 feet high but covered in a haze
from the fires. We had lunch in Jackson at the Million Dollar
Cowboy Bar.
Jackson is a real western town and very famous and busy. Later
that day we rode into Idaho and got absolutely drenched. It was
bucketing down with rain and we decided to book a motel. We
looked for one in a small town called Soda Springs but didn’t
like the feel of it. We rode another 50 miles through the
pouring rain and stopped in Preston for the night. Turned the
air conditioning on hot to dry all our clothes.
Warm and sunny the next morning. We took all the small country
roads into Utah and that’s where it got a bit remote. Sometimes
75 miles between small towns, it got pretty hot here too. We
rode 70 miles in Nevada and back into Utah. We were very excited
when we saw the salt lakes in the distance.
We stopped at Bonneville Speedway where in 1967 Burt Munro rode
the worlds’ fastest Indian at 183 miles per hour. A bright
yellow Chevrolet Corvette came back from a run on the lake. We
had a chat to the guy and he told us he had done 208 km per
hour. The car was absolutely covered in salt, Ronnie really
wanted to take the BMW on the lake but after seeing the car he
gave it a miss.
In the distance we saw a four wheel drive car bogged in the
salt lake. No idea how they were going to get him out, it looked
pretty serious. We rode towards Salt Lake City. It was stinking
hot by now and for 40 kilometers we rode between salt lakes,
nothing but salt. We stayed near a canyon that night, it was
very busy; Friday night and everybody had left the city to go
camping.