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Like most outback adventure rides you spend the week or two before the ride putting all the stuff you think you may need together on the shed bench and on the bed in the spare bedroom.
Then when it’s all there and you try to pack it you realize that you
could not possibly carry it all on your bike - so you proceed to get rid
of half of it. This ride was no different. One thing I still haven’t
learned after all these years is that there are shops in other places in
Australia. You do not need to carry weeks of supplies from when you
leave home.
The Desert Raid Rally is held every alternate year somewhere in the
great outback of Australia. It’s a one night rally where we all
congregate at the campspot, spend the night telling exaggerated stories
about other rides we have been on, then the next morning pack up
our tents and go home.
This ride for 2019 was held in WA at Empress Springs which is North of
the Great Central Road on the David Carnegie Highway turnoff a few
kilometres before the Tjukayirla (pronounced Chook-a-rilla ) Roadhouse.
As far as highways are concerned this one only shares the name with real
highways. It is actually a non-maintained gravel/sandy outback track.
There were about ten riders from our area here in the Lower West and
three in our little group. Richard Charles, Leon Durrant and myself. Due
to our limited (one week) timeframe we decided to trailer our bikes to
Leonora and start the ride from there. We had two Suzuki DRZ 400's and a
KTM 450. So we preferred not to leg it to Leonora from Albany but cruise
in the comfort of a Land Cruiser.
We had an uneventful drive to Leonora and booked in at the miners
accommodation facility, which has lots of single room dongas, for the
first night. The next morning after a “hearty” breakfast (and I mean
wow, these guys eat really well) we went to check out the Gwalia ghost
town. It really makes you appreciate looking through the abandoned site
how tough life was in the goldrush days, especially for families.
From there we spent the next three days getting to Empress Springs
throughout back trails and gravely roads. We camped the second night at
the bottom of a huge breakaway that was about a kilometer long. Usual
campfire and storytelling (sorry can’t share any stories, what’s told on
the ride stays on the ride...mostly). It was a magical spot with caves
to explore and lots of stars at night. Rich red and white clay area.
Lots of great riding and interesting country out that way. Every few
kilometers there was something to stop and look at. Abandoned mines
littered the area and temporary infrastructure in ruins. Materials were
so valuable that when a mine site was finished with, the buildings were
dismantled and relocated to a new site.
We camped at Tjukayirla Roadhouse on the fourth night and then explored
the area in the morning before backtracking a few kilometers to head up
the David Carnegie Road.
This is great riding with lots of variations in track conditions
from gravelly sections to soft sand. The soft sand did not suit
all riders with some guys even pulling out and going home and in other
spots the sand was telling stories of spills and scuffles to get going
again.
We arrived at Empress Springs that afternoon and set up camp, I think I
was the 185th bike to register so it wasn't a bad turnout. That night
there was lots of campfires scattered through the area with alcohol
running freely and bursts of laughter erupting in all directions. That
was one hell of a cold night....See photo of my temperature gauge at
6:45am. Just before that photo was taken it was at -6. When we got up
there was ice covering everything, so on came the fires again to warm
up.
We then checked out the spring which was a deep underground cave with a
chain ladder to climb down. It was very hot and humid inside and about
10 meters deep. There was very little water at the bottom.
The trip home was very much the same with lots of exploring and
investigating of old mine sites and landscapes, appreciating the
hardship the old gold diggers went through to retrieve the dream of that
valuable metal.